Celeriac, salsify, kohlrabi... These strange and knobbly vegetables, at their peak in winter and spring, take a little effort to prepare but the results are well worth it
We kept the parsnips over winter in a sack of sand in the outhouse, my dad sending me down to get the long, pale roots on a Sunday morning, so they could be peeled and roasted around the beef. I protested, even though they made a silky mash and a fine soup. We knew nothing of the other pale and interesting winter vegetables – salsify or Jerusalem artichokes, celeriac or kohlrabi – and had no any idea you could eat beetroot without pickling it first.
It is odd, sad even, that we have settled for carrots and parsnips when there are so many other root vegetables worth our time. I guess we went for the easy-peel varieties. Salsify, long and elegant, is back in the shops after years in the wilderness. It’s a messy vegetable to deal with, possessing a fine, mineral flavour, that – unlike most of its kind – carries something of an affinity for shellfish. I use it with scallops and cod cheeks. The roots are the devil to wash, and covered in fine, black soil that will get everywhere. They need washing and peeling, though not necessarily in that order. Salsify can be cut into stubby pieces the length of a wine cork, and fried. Butter is its friend, but steam the pieces first then toss them in it, like new potatoes. Better still, after steaming, roll each lump in beaten egg and fresh breadcrumbs, perhaps with a little grated parmesan and chopped parsley. Then fry till crisp.
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